IO Luigi Taglienti, Piacenza

In One Bite:

Modern Italian cuisine with an adventurous twist by chef Luigi Taglienti, whose notoriously daring approach finds full expression in a charming venue in the Italian city of Piacenza.

Standout Features

The Chef’s Style: Taglienti’s dishes and pairings are original enough to immediately pique curiosity yet able to maintain harmony. His personality transpires through his recipes and he seems to challenge himself perpetually and to voluntarily take himself out of the comfort zone so that he may lead his guests there, too. Beyond his vast technical knowledge, he follows his gut and lets his intuition dictate the making of his creations. He invites his clients to do the same when approaching his menu: diners are told to savour the dishes in whatever order and at whatever pace they prefer, in whichever way comes naturally to them. The idea of instinct is reprised and amplified in the Standards menu, which features sauces from the classic tradition as the focal point. This menu is inspired by Luigi’s love of jazz: he sees each dish as a ‘track’ balancing technique and improvisation, following precise rules in the execution yet totally unexpected in the creative expression. This menu is not only an in-depth exploration of sauces and a fine example of how they can take centre stage, but it is also just as playful and unexpected as a jazz improvisation.

The Venue: Visitors will likely be won over before even opening the menu, as the location itself is an impressive sight. The space is a modern cosy annex nestled in the charming courtyard of the deconsecrated church of Sant’Agostino. The imposing building of the former church is now used as a gallery but also as a spectacular additional venue for IO customers wishing to hold large events or to simply walk through and admire the installations before or after their meal. Within the restaurant itself is a simple, elegant decor with a large moon-shaped light hovering above one end of the room reiterating the sense of being taken on a voyage.

The Connection to the Land: Whilst committed to his personal path, Luigi also focuses on maximising the region’s culinary strengths and supporting its wine producers. The land surrounding Piacenza is not only imbued with calm and beauty but also blessed with top produce as well as one of the richest culinary heritages. Thus, IO’s menu options are wide and varied. The a-la-carte offer reflects the changing seasons, while the tasting menu showcases the local territories.

Star Dishes

(Subject to change)

Highlights include the thermidor with lobster and gruyère and an impressive squid ink royale with hare and shellfish. Although on paper these combinations may seem like they were picked randomly out of a hat, behind each flavour pairing is a careful weighing of savouriness, fat, sweetness and acidity. The latter is the chef’s favourite note, which he doses with great dexterity to reach a perfect balance and greater complexity.
On the other end of the spectrum of innovation is a deep appreciation for the simple things. Spaghetti with tomato sauce, a staple of Italian cuisine, is served as one of the final dishes of the Standards menu and it comes as a surprise after so much originality. Made with tomatoes from Puglia, it’s a nod to the most popular sauce in Italy and a clear statement by Taglienti, who closes the circle of creativity by returning to the foundations.

Final Morsel: should you visit?

IO Luigi Taglienti is a gastronomical gift to Piacenza, and certainly worth a detour, as they say, for anyone further afield and eager to delight themselves with something out of the ordinary. Taglienti’s project is especially commendable for its boldness in bringing an experimentative approach in a city that may not be as eager to steer away from tradition as bigger metropoles are prepared to do. Those who have trusted him and have become regular diners, however, know that they are lucky to rediscover the local cuisine through his creative lens and his experienced hands. With only a micro team of three very skilled young assistants in the kitchen, Taglienti admirably takes on the challenge of breaking the shackles of traditional Italian cuisine in order to see it undergo new, bold reinventions.